Posts Tagged ‘trails’

Well it’s that time of the year again, and that time is the American Hiking Society’s National Trails Day 2010.  This year, we decided to head to Tahquamenon Falls State Park in Michigan for their annual ‘Hike Between ‘da Falls’ day.

If you have never been to Tahquamenon Falls, you should really make time to head up there, even if for a weekend and check out the beauty and splendor of some of Michigan’s natural wonders.  There are two sets of falls, the Upper Falls and the Lower Falls, both of which are equally astonishing.

We arrived at the Lower Falls, greeted by Park Rangers wielding brochures, maps, and bug spray.  I cannot begin to tell you how friendly and kind the rangers up at TFSP acted.  It is a blessing to begin a hike with a friendly visit with some local rangers.  They informed us of a few dangers and tips before we were to depart.  After our friendly chat wound to an end, the shuttle bus arrived to take ourselves and a dozen other hikers to the Upper Falls.  The ride was short and before we knew it we had arrived.  We took a quick side trip over to see the Upper Falls and take in all of their loveliness.  Once a few pictures were taken, and pleasantries said, we set out for the Tahquamenon River Trail, which connects the Upper Falls to the Lower Falls.  The beginning of the trail was level and easy, with very few bugs and even less people.  Several times we stopped to just to enjoy the canopy of old growth forests and the stillness of the woods, with only the sounds of the river to break the relaxing silence.  We progressed down the trail at a relaxing pace, and the elevation and trail difficulty increased a fair amount.  I would not call the trail difficult, but certain spots required a bit of a breather.  As this was a day hike, we were not carrying full backpacks, and only had some water bottles and a sling back to weigh us down.  The repetition of the dirt trails was broken  a few times by some man-made wooden boardwalks, some of which tilted at almost dangerous angles.  The local chapter of the NCTA had setup a snack-stop half way through the hike, and we halted to enjoying a quick snack before trying to race the bugs attempting to get their quick snack, of us!

Eventually we arrived at the Lower Falls, and were greeting by a large tent sponsored by the local chapter of the NCTA.  We received a small gift bag with a wooden ‘achievement’ coin, as well as some maps and information on the NCT.  The staff at the tent was excellent and very friendly, and was a nice compliment to the end of a perfect day at Tahquamenon Falls State Park.  If you are even wondering which event to take on National Trails Day, I would strongly suggest this relaxing and beautiful hike, and take some time to enjoy the natural beauty that Michigan has to offer.

Pictures from our wonderful trip can be found by clicking HERE!

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The Casio Pathfinder PAW1500T-7V is the latest addition to my hiking and backpacking arsenal.  There are a few reasons to purchase this watch, the main one being it makes you feel eerily like James Bond with a new gadget.

Getting back to all seriousness, this watch is fantastic to take out on the trails. The range of functions that this watch can perform will stagger the senses.  I will list just a few for you;

Multi-Band Atomic Timekeeping

It automatically calls out to the national atomic time broadcast towers and updates itself up to 6 times a night, so your time is always accurate.

Solar Power

How do you make a watch better?  Make it run off the sun!  With as little as 5 minutes a day exposure to direct sunlight, this watch will keep it’s main charge for up to 5 months.  Just with 5 minutes a day!  Any more than that, it will always keep the battery fresh and charged.

600ft Water Resistant

For those tough days hiking in a horrible, driving rain.

Tide Graph

I haven’t really figured out how this will benefit me, but I’ll admit I find myself checking EXACTLY what the current tide is every hour!  I suppose it would be useful for beach hiking, but around Michigan that’s not exactly our main trail system…

Moon Data

Notably, one of the best functions ever put into a watch.  You may be asking yourself “Why the hell would I want to know the phase of the moon when I’m backpacking?”  Well I’ll tell you!  There are several good reasons, such as you can more accurately predict the movement of nocturnal animals (i.e. deer, bear) as corresponds to the moon and moonlight rating.  Also, you can tell when there is going to be a full moon, so you can plan a romantic moon-watching session on the beach!… or turn into a werewolf.  Both are interesting, and this watch will help!

Digital Compass

This wonderful bond-esqe watch comes with a live compass that will change the main directions, as well as the compass degrees as you walk.  Given a proper map, you can actually use this watch to find your compass bearings and location, therefore combining NEW technology, with TRUSTED paper.

Altimeter

Climb a lot of mountains?  Yeah, me neither.  I try to keep it to at least one a year though!  So when you do, this watch will tell you exactly how high you are, and how much further you have to go.  As an added bonus, it will store the max altitude reached, so when your friends don’t believe you just came back from that easy stroll up K2, bust out the watch and show them EXACTLY how high you were!

Barometer

My favorite function.  Not only will the Pathfinder tell you the current barometric pressure, but it graphs the changes in pressure too!  With simply a push of one button, you can see the barometric change over the last 18 hours.  I can not begin to tell you how handy this is when you’re stuck on a trail and the clouds turn iffy.  It’s like having a weatherman strapped to your wrist!  …only lighter, and less hair gel.

Thermometer

Ok, I’m not terribly thrilled with this function, but it still doesn’t turn me off of the watch as a whole.  The temperature is very inaccurate, mostly because it’s strapped to a big sweaty Polish wrist when I keep hitting the button.  Even in the user’s guide, it says to take off the watch and let it set for at least 5 minutes in order to get an accurate temp.  I guess it’s a small price to pay, and when taken off and let stand, the watch does read very accurately.  It’s just a bit of a hassle.

Low Temperature Resistant (For those really, REALLY cold mornings.  You know which ones I’m talking about.)

World Time (29 times zones for when you’re hiking abroad)

So basically as I’m wrapping this up, this watch is a wonderful toy to have.  Not necessary on the trail, but given the opportunity, it would be a nice addition to anyone’s repertoire of hiking goodies.  At a retail price of $400, it’s… well… very expensive.  You can find it on sale quite a bit, and with as many vendors that carry it, you shouldn’t pay more than $230 for it.

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One of the prettiest trails in Michigan is the Lakeshore Trail, directly on top of the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.  It was this reason why I decided to take a few days off of work and give this trail a shot.  I had never met a trail so beautifully difficult before, but looking back on my experience I gained a whole new respect for this hike.

First I will give you a quick breakdown of how this trail works, as it’s different than other trails in Michigan.  The Lakeshore Trail follows a 45 mile portion of the NCT from Grand Marais to Munising in Michigan’s upper peninsula.  One important fact that I will point out is that PRNL has distinctive backcountry camping rules.  You must first file an itinerary at one of the two trailhead offices, and designate which campgrounds you will stay at on each night.  You will then plan your trip accordingly, allowing yourself to hike from “A” to “B”.  It’s a good idea, unless you’ve called in advance (2 weeks), to bring a backup plan just incase the campsites that you wished to stay at are full.  Currently the fee is $5.00 per night, but no fee for day hiking.

Another important point I would like to bring to your attention is there is NO trail blazes on the Lakeshore Trail.  The rangers simply describe it as a “clearly worn path”, however there are several spots which will have you scratching your head and flipping a coin to choose which to follow.

That being said, I chose to embark on my journey at Grand Marais, and hike through to Munising.   I arrived at Grand Marais and filled out the appropriate paperwork then set upon my task.  My first day was a near 7 mile trip to the Au Sable east camp.  The hike was an easy one, although the trail crossed the only local road and followed it for about a half of a mile.  If the ranger wouldn’t have told me that, I could see how a person could easily get lost.   I was surprised at the amount of bushwhacking that was involved in this portion of the hike.  The elevation change was not bad at all, and I made it to camp with reasonable daylight left.  The camps were clean and had quite a few friendly backpackers as well.  The temperature was perfect, the bugs were not too bad just yet, so all in all a good evening.  I sat and watched the sunset on the shores of Lake Superior and then decided to call it a night.

The morning came easy and quiet.  I made a quick breakfast and set about my business of packing up camp.  Today was the “push” day, so I had to make near 14 miles before sunset.  I had injured myself on the previous day, so it was a slow go this morning.  The trail had begun to gain elevation, and the view was starting to get a bit more majestic.  I passed the Au Sable lighthouse first thing in the morning.  The sun was new in the sky and the stillness of the lighthouse emanated an aura of peace and serenity.  I paid my respects before setting off further down the path.  I pass several campgrounds, as well as paths that lead down to the water for viewing shipwrecks.  There was only one shipwreck and I could see from the shore, but the concept behind them being there was equally nifty and haunting.  I passed the Hurricane River mouth, tipping my hat to several fisherman attempting to bag a keeper, and eventually came to Twelve Mile Beach campground.  This is a large drive-in campground, but due to the road construction on H-58, there was not a soul to be found.  I relaxed on a bench perched atop a bluff nearly a hundred feet above the waterline and took a quick power nap.  About an hour later I was awake and grinding my way down the trail, stopping for the occasional snack and rest.  The trail at this point had flattened out quite a bit, and I made the rest of the mileage in quick time.  I arrived at Beaver Creek camp, which I found to be quite serene.  The water access was a LONG hike down VERY steep sugar sand bluffs, but I spent a well-earned time swimming in the ice cold comfort of the lake, then basking in the sun to regain my much needed warmth.  The bugs at this camp were far less numerous than previously on the trail, so I had a hot dinner and settled down for an uneventful night.

The morning drew closer with stealth and was there before I could outsmart it.  I broke camp with a renewed feeling of vigor and peace, and set off on my merry way.  There was a small A-frame bridge to be crossed made of old split logs and then the trail headed up in a rather swift distance.  I passed several groups of hikers than were complaining of bugs.  I just chuckled and went on with my business.  It was no more than a mile down the path before the scenery became nearly breathtaking.  The elevation grunting was well worth the effort, as I stood above towering cliffs and covers hundreds of feet below me.  The 10 miles I progressed that day was worth the trip in its entirety.  Words can hardly describe the beauty of that leg of the Lakeshore Trail.  Several times during the day I looked down upon the boats full of tourists viewing the beautiful cliffs that I was nested upon.  I ultimately arrived at my next camp which was appropriately named “Mosquito”.  The beach at mosquito was derived mostly of layered shale stone that jutted out into the lapping waters of Lake Superior.  The breeze was calming as I setup my camp, although the mosquito population was something out of an Alfred Hitchcock film.  I nestled down and had a cold and unforgiving night, rising at 3:00am to find that the mosquitoes had not subsided in either population or vigor.

The next morning I had a quick breakfast down by the water to escape from my vampiric cloud and then, after wrapping myself in as much clothes and I was carrying, broke camp and set upon my way.  The path was much calmer than the previous days, and I eventually arrived at Miner’s Beach.  I paused to refill my water supply, as the next available water was the end of the trail.  After visiting with a dozen kayakers that had ported in on the beach, I gathered my water filter up and hiked through half a mile of beach sand to an inland portion of the trail.  It was one mile from Miner’s Beach to Miner’s Castle.   This single mile was the toughest of the entire Lakeshore Trail.  The elevation change was intense and the terrain was riddled with tree roots and muck.  I was happy to reach the top and was surprised to see an full-fledged visitor center fully stocked with flush toilets and friendly park staff.  I had a quick chat with the delightful park ranger who informed me that the weather had a 50% chance of rain.  I relaxed at Miner’s Castle for awhile, partaking of a quick foot massage and water break, then embarked on the few miles that remained.  It began to sprinkle but the coolness of the weather was a nice reprieve from the humidity of the lingering day.  I arrived at my final camp of the day, named “Cliffs” which ironically enough was nowhere near a cliff.  In fact, it was about a quarter mile from the lakeshore edge itself.  I setup a small camp and made a fire before it began to downpour.  It only rained for a short time, and I emerged to assess the damage and rebuild my fire.  A group of wet hikers arrived, and within a short time they had setup camp.  We sat around the fire and exchanged hiking stories and jokes.  It was a great time for all, and they were certainly a group I will not forget anytime soon.  I crawled into my tent and had my final night’s sleep undisturbed and peacefully.

I woke early to get a head start on the day, as I had precious little time to make it to Munising Falls before my ride was to arrive.  I packed up a very wet and muddy camp, said farewell to my new group of friends, and slugged along the trail.  The wet branches and leaves left my clothes quite damp, but the refreshing cool of the day kept the mosquitoes down.  That was, until the sun came out.  With the humidity rising the bugs came out in full force, and served as an excellent motivator for me to make my journey faster.  I passed a few small waterfalls and quite a bit more beautiful landscapes before eventually arriving at my destination; Munising Falls.  The morning was still quite young, and I took advantage of running water and flushing toilets for the second time on my journey.  I had a wonderful chat with the park ranger and found that time flew back and alas our chat had to end.  I left Munising Falls exhausted but completely satisfied.  The trail was a harsh mistress but in the end, the Lakeshore Trail was quite the adventure and a definite recommendation to any backpacker I know.

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Ever ate a bagel at 1000ft?  It makes the bagel taste much better…

This weekend we had decided to take a hike and dust off the cobwebs and price tags.  We arrived at the Marilla trailhead near Mesick and Hodenpyl Dam.   The morning was brisk and the clouds looked iffy.  “Well,” I said “It’s either going to be a great hike, or a wet hike.”  We used the pit toilet that was so gracefully beckoning us by its pungent aroma, checked our packs, locked the car, and off we went on our adventure.

We started out on a segment of the NCT.  The trails were well trodden and the forest was calm and peaceful, with the occasional bird breaking the still.  Unbeknownst to us, the trail was slowly rising at a very gentle angle.  Then it hit us.   It was like a ton a bricks wrapped in lemons.  The view!  We stopped in amazement as we were staring down onto the Manistee River 250 ft below us.  We could’ve stopped and setup camp right there, and I think we both would have been satisfied.

We shook the stars out of our eyes, and continued along the NCT.    Slowly we began the hike down from our clouds as the trail began to drop a bit more steeply than it rose.  We passed only a few other hikers, who were friendly though reserved; as most backpackers tend to be.  Ultimately we arrived where the NCT left us, and the Manistee River Trail took us on another course.   We bid farewell to the NCT and its beautiful views and started on the MRT.

The MRT gently guided us further down into the valley.  No fewer than a dozen times did we stop and gaze up at the mountain next to us.  It was impressively surreal.    We crossed a few forest roads and got our first glimpse of the Manistee River.  Ironically, the spot where we arrived was the calmest water we would see in the next few days.

We tried to follow the blazes on the trees, but somehow got turned around and took a several mile tour of the woods.  A group of hikers ran into us in our desperate search with the same problem.  With their help we got back on track and arrived at the suspension bridge.  The MRT has a wonderful suspension bridge that reminds you of Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s VERY secure, and also very one-way.  Do not attempt to pass anyone as there is not enough room.

After the bridge, the MRT follows the river along the tops of the high banks.  For most of our adventure, we were staring down onto the Manistee.  The views were amazing and the trails were fairly easy.  There was quite a few roots to stumble over in the trail, but with the amount of giant trees desperately clinging to the banks, you understand why.

We passed several waterfalls here as well.  Sure, they are small, but the sound and fury of the water is no less fierce or beautiful.  You also find yourself crossing multiple tiny wooden bridges that cross over the streams that help feed the Manistee.

Backcountry camping is allowed here, plus they also have dispersed camp sites that are free for use.  These sites allow you to be close to the water and trail, as the backcountry rules still apply for distance from water and trails.   After about five miles of hiking we happened upon a dispersed site that was NOT taken!  I swear, we had the best seat in the house.    We were quite a distance down from the main trail, yet only a few yards from the roaring Manistee.  The site was perfect and we spent the rest of the day relaxing.

One thing to mention is that this area is posted with signs that warn you “If you hear a loud siren, seek high ground!”  Apparently they let the dam waters out on occasion and the water has been known to rush through 12 ft higher than normal.  Just keep an ear open for sirens while you’re down by the river bank.

The night was quiet and uneventful, with the morning greeting us as a cold harsh mistress.  We got a fire going and warmed up before breaking camp and hitting the trail on our way back.  The birdsong and spider webs kept us brisk and motivated and eventually we made it across the bridge.  This time we took the correct path back to the NCT.   The ascent back to our lookout seemed much more difficult than going down the first time, but we eventually made it back up to the top.

The hike was a success beyond any of our expectations.  We sat and gazed out into the sea of trees below us, reliving our trip and remembered how truly good a bagel tastes at 1000 ft.

Pictures can be found by clicking HERE

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From the moment I opened the cover, until the moment I fell asleep, then woke up and finished it, this book was nothing but a thrill to read.

This book should be considered the “Bible of Backpacking”.   It covers just about any issue you could possibly think of, plus it is full of awesome tips and tricks to make your hiking life easier.  From blisters to backpacks, everything is covered in this book.

Karen Berger, the author, is an experienced hiker with over 10,000 miles of bragging rights, and a hilarious sense of humor which comes out in each page.  Her jokes keep the reading fun, and also gives you a fantastic method to remember important facts and tips. 

Out of all the backpacking and hiking books I’ve ever read, this is by far the best one to date.  By the time that I was done reading it, I was left with a pleasant feeling of “Well then…” which only comes when a book has completely satisfied your curiosity. 

So stop reading this, get in your car, and go buy this book.  Right now.  You won’t regret it.  Why are you still reading this?  Go!  Shoo!

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Alright, if you were to walk up to me and ask “What do I need to know about backpacking?” I would simply walk to my shelf, grab the recent issue of Backpacker, and smack you with it. This edition of Backpacker Magazine is the most informative book to hit print since the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy.

I sat welded to each page and after several hours and a short nap, I felt a bit more educated.

This edition of Backpacker reviews this years new gear, packs, tents, mats, bedrolls, you name it! Each section of the magazine is appropriately labeled based on what item they are going to review. Under the header, is a full page schematic of the item, labeled with every important point and feature, plus a description of the benefits. I cannot tell you how helpful this is to beginning backpackers, and even veterans.

After the educational section, they then review roughly 32 of the items, giving each one a breakdown, description, price, features, and rating. I do not exactly agree to some of them, but that’s why we’re not a hive-minded society, I’m allowed to have an opinion.

This edition is fantastic for many reasons. If you are considering purchasing ANY new gear, and want a breakdown of good/bad for ALL of the big brands out there, find this magazine and read it. It will help give you a better understanding of the design, pros/cons, and functionality behind whatever item you are thinking of buying.

The downside to this edition? There’s a few car ads. It essentially throws off my grove while reading.

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Well, I’ll begin by saying that I have not done much traveling around the United States. That being said, the Backpacker Magazine offered me a free PDF book called The Best Trails in America as part of purchasing my soul for their subscription. Gleefully, I obliged.

The book contains quite a bit of information on hidden gem trails located in several states. At first I asked myself “Crazy man, do you believe them?” and after wondering why I was talking to myself, I came to the conclusion that I did. I turned to the Michigan section and read the only entry for that state. I was instantly impressed. I had never heard of it! It was a wonderful gemstone of information regarding the Trap Hills in the Upper Peninsula. What an amazing hike that could be! Beautiful cliffs, waterfalls, old mines, abandoned tramway… sounds like a Scooby Doo episode!

So all in all, I would recommend leafing through this book and turning directly to your state. There just might be some great information that you’ve never heard of!
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If you’re from Michigan, and you have even a mild interest in hiking and backpacking, there is but one book you need to read: Backpacking in Michigan by Jim DuFresne.  When I first began hiking I purchased the earlier version of this book and fell in love with it.  There are so many trails around Michigan that most Michiganders have never even heard of.

This book begins with a few valuable hints and tips that every backpacker should know, and is tailored to Michigan specifically.  After the quick course on backpacking, he leads into numerically organized trail maps and descriptions.  The trails range from populated areas of the lower peninsula, to desolate areas of the upper peninsula.  Each section contains a trail map with symbols placed on every important location of interest.  The maps also have distances placed from leg to leg, and a recommended route based on how many days you wish to spend hiking it.

At the beginning of every trail description there is a summary which includes total distance, days required to hike, and general difficulty.  DO NOT be fooled by the difficulty ratings.  I assure you from personal experience, just because it says “Moderate” difficulty, does not mean it won’t kick your butt.

I recommend this book to everyone who ever plans to hike in Michigan, on either upper or lower peninsulas.  His descriptions paint an accurate picture of what you are to expect, without giving away the feelings and emotions associated with actually being out on the trail.  Enjoy this book!  I know I have!

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My first attempt to find a good book on trail cooking was a book that seems to be all over the Internet regarding hiking and backpacking.  This book was Trail Food: Drying and Cooking Food for Backpacking and Paddling. I couldn’t really justify buying it new, and about the time I was going to search for it on Ebay, Kelly and I found it used at a local Gander Mountain for $6.  Needless to say, I was ecstatic and purchased it immediately.

Upon spending an afternoon drinking Earl Grey and reading through this book, I found myself flipping through the pages trying to find a recipe in a backpack quantity.  The book contained very interesting recipes, and even blueprints to make your own homemade dehydrator, closet size!

In my opinion, this book is very good for getting ideas, and especially good if you are into Kayaking or multi-day canoe trips.  Basically, if you are planning a trip that does not concern weight, this book is good for you.  On the lighter side (pun intended) it does give quite a few handy tips and tricks to dehydrating your own fruits, vegetables and meats.

Point in case, if you can find this book on sale, or at a used book market, then pick it up just for the dehydrator information and the recipe ideas.

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So I had mentioned in my previous post about Freezer Bag Cooking™. I remained skeptical for several weeks before I gave their site another chance. This time, however, I watched the videos…
My “role” if you will on the trails is Camp Chef. This has to do partially with my mother being an accomplished cook, and also with my neurotic obsession with cooking. Just because I feel I have to cook everything however, does not justify hiking all of that weight out on the trails. I watched the videos starting the charming Ms. Sarah Kirkconnell, and it was then that I had been convinced to give this a try. I ordered a copy of the cook book, as well as a cozy for myself and one for Kelly.

Less than a week later, I had my new toys! Anxiously, I ripped open the package as a child does on Christmas morning. The cozies were both very beautiful and well sewn. I sat down and began to read through Freezer Bag Cooking™: The Cookbook.

After just over an hour, I had completed the book. It is not a terribly huge book by any means, but good things come in small packages. Even with my background in cooking, this book is what I had been looking for. It gave me ideas! Who would have thought of couscous for breakfast?! Genius! The book had sated my lust for new and exciting hiking food! Granted that the meals contained therein were neither cheaply made, nor expensive. Most of the weight involved in these recipes come from the 5oz to 7oz pouches of chicken, tuna, and various seafoods, but that is a reasonable weight to burden. After all, you are packing very minimal kitchen gear now. The beautiful thing about the freezer bags, is that once finished, you can seal them up to reduce the scent in the air, and they weigh virtually nothing! Plus no dishes to do!

I would strongly recommend this book to others who have an interest (or frustration) in trail foods and preparation. Check it out!

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